We created a new video to show how to hang our Large Feger Furnishings mug rack using the heavy duty self tapping drywall hangers we offer at the time off purchase. All you need in order to hang the rack is a measuring tape/stick, level, philips head screw driver, and a hammer. Please feel free to provide us feedback on how we can make this instructional video better and please let us know if you have any questions. Side notes: -If you run into a stud when you are trying to hang the rack, you do not need to use the anchor and can just put the screw directly into the stud. -If you did not order anchors from us make sure you get an anchor set that has flat head screws with it. For some reason lots of the anchors come with a button head on the screw that do not fit in keyhole hangers well.
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We are happy to bring you a short, sweet, and imperfect video on how to hang your mug rack with the most basic tools. If you purchased the anchors from us, this is all you need to hang your rack:
Cabinet hardware provides functionality and style, but its presence is often overlooked or taken for granted. That is, of course, until you move into a house with kitchen cabinets that are void of this practical feature. If this happens to you, fear not; adding pulls or handles to your doors and drawers is a simple project that won’t break the bank. I completed this task on 20 cabinets in about 2 hours. Below, I share how to install cabinet hardware. Positioning and aligning each pull or knob consistently and accurately is of great importance. To do this, you could spend time in your shop making a fancy wood jig, or you could purchase an alignment template at your local hardware store. My advice is to choose the latter, especially when you can buy one as inexpensive and accurate as the ALIGNright from Liberty. I found this handy template in the cabinet hardware section at Home Depot for only $8.48. The package includes an alignment template for cabinet doors and drawers and a 3/16 in drill bit. Plus, it is versatile for knobs and handles ranging from 2.5 to 5-1/16 inches. My pulls were 3 inch. Here is an image from the Home Depot website showing the two templates. Below are the ALIGNright templates that I purchased in the package and out of the package. Upon inspection, the plastic is transparent to aid marking, and the fences are wide enough to sit steady against the cabinet surface. After familiarizing myself with the template markings, it was time to mark the cabinets. Here is the corner of one of the cherry cabinets that needed a pull. On the cabinet door template, I marked the holes matching the 3-inch pull with arrows. This helped me mark each door more quickly and consistently. Next, I firmly positioned the template against the corner of the door using both fences. Then, I marked the holes. I used a black sharpie pen to fill the hole, making the mark easily visible. The marks were 1/16” – the size of the template hole. I used a 1/16” drill bit to make a starter hole, only drilling about ¼” into the door. I wanted just enough depth to provide a centering hole for the 3/16” drill bit used to make the final hole for the hardware bolts. After drilling the 3/16” holes, push the hardware bolt through from the back and screw on the pull. Handle secured! The same process applies for a knob: set the template, mark your hole, pre-drill, drill, insert and screw. For drawers, the process is the same, except you’ll use the drawer aligning template. This template has a fence wide enough to rest on the drawer unaided. The template also has a center hole, which is used for marking knobs but also functions as a centering point for pull positioning. I used this hole to center on the middle of the drawer, then marked the 3-inch holes. After positioning and marking, pre-drill, drill, and place your pulls. There you go, it was that easy. Now you can have consistently, accurately placed cabinet hardware that makes your cabinets more functional and stylish!
I have finally taken the first step to our you tube channel! ****Full disclosure***** No videos on here are going to be fancy or perfect by any stretch of the imagination. :) My goal in having this channel set up is to have short and sweet videos to explain how to do various things involving woodworking, design, handy work, etc. In the past when I have looked for how to videos, I found it to be very time consuming because of all the unnecessary introductions, music, etc. which explains why my videos are so short and to the point. I will plan to have lots of these short and sweet videos so when you need directions on something specific, that is what you get. I hope you find them useful. Feel free to send us questions and recommendations as this is a learning process for me. Thank you so much for watching!
Framing a mirror can be one of the most challenging jobs; however, the finished product is so rewarding that the frustration disappears from memory. Mirror framing frustration can be from making sure the 45-degree angles are good enough so that the surfaces of the cuts touch with enough surface area to allow for the glue between them to create a strong bond. Additionally, frustration can come from cutting the glass to fit an already rabbeted frame. Cutting angles Using a miter saw can be really challenging: the fence may be slightly off; the arm may not track perfectly in line; or the calibration of the turning base may be off. There are many tips out there that can help with all of these challenges. Fortunately, any single one of these challenges or mis-alignments may not pose a tremendous problem, especially when dealing with framing that is less than 2" wide. However, distance amplifies error! Thus, trying to frame with boards that are 4" or wider amplifies the error at the heel or toe of the 45-degree cut. You can either spend time altering one of the mis-alignments mentioned above, or you can make fine correction cuts when attempting to match all four corners. Unfortunately, making correction cuts may lead to even bigger problems, especially if the frame is already rabbeted and trying to fit a specifically sized mirror. One way around the challenges of a miter saw is not to use a miter saw. A table saw can be a great alternative saw for framing. There are great videos out there showing this technique. I use my table saw and guide for frames that are 4" or wider. With the table saw, I'm able to verify more precisely that the blade is at 90-degrees to the table and that the guide is a perfect 45 degrees. This has allowed me to create stronger bonds at the corners and reduce my time framing. Cutting mirror
Cutting a mirror on a straight line to fit a rabbeted frame for a custom mirror is seriously satisfying. Honestly, I think it is easier and safer than many may think. There are multiple techniques used to cut a plain piece of glass. The technique I like most uses a sharpie, vegetable oil, a fence, and a rolling mirror cutter. After measuring, mark with a sharpie and set the fence that allows the mirror cutter to cut along the desired line. A very helpful hint is to place desired cut line at the edge of a sharp-edged corner. Then, pour a line of vegetable oil along the fence and, using a finger, cover the cut area with the oil. Take the mirror cutter and roll it along the guide, cutting the mirror in one smooth, clean pass. Do not make multiple passes or try to reinforce cuts in areas; this is not necessary and will ruin the straight line. After making the cut, snap down on the glass. Bada bing bada boom - a custom mirror. Hopefully these tips help with your framing. Again, framing a mirror is very satisfying; I suggest you try. We frame many mirrors using barn wood as the pictures show. Using the barn wood brings its own challenges, but those can be discussed later. In the meantime, may your frustrations be light and your mirrors be strong! Happy woodworking! We love challenges and suggestions for our next creations so feel free to contact us if you think of something awesome we need to be making!
This little bull is headed over to Kidznotes to help raise money at their Raleigh gala.
Kidznotes is a non-profit that changes the life trajectory of underserved k-12 students through orchestral training. In partnership with Durham and Wake County Public Schools, Kidznotes provides students with an instrument of their own and approximately 10 hours a week of intensive instruction in orchestra, choir, music theory, and band for 40 weeks of the school year at no cost to their families. Currently, we are serving 400 students in Durham and Raleigh. #FegerFurnishings #kidznotes @kidz_notes |
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